Ua hele paha ʻoe i loko o kahi hale kūʻai lāʻau lapaʻau a i ʻole kahi hale kūʻai nui a kūʻai aku i kahi huahana mālama ʻili, a laila ua huikau ʻoe e ka papa inoa o nā mea hoʻohui i kākau ʻia me nā leka liʻiliʻi ma ke kua? Alpha-hydroxy kēia, Beta-hydroxy kēlā, Retinol, peptides ... Ke ʻike ʻoe i kēia mau inoa, i kekahi manawa ke noʻonoʻo nei ʻoe inā he mea āu e kau nei ma kou ʻili a i ʻole he hoʻokolohua kemika. Mai hopohopo, ʻaʻole ʻoe hoʻokahi. He nui ka poʻe i loaʻa i kēia pilikia. No laila i kēia lā, e kamaʻilio kākou e pili ana i ke ʻano o kēia mau huaʻōlelo, kā lākou hana no kou ʻili, a pehea e koho ai i ka mea kūpono iā ʻoe.
Nā ʻano waikawa hou o ka ʻili: AHA a me BHA
Mai makaʻu i kou lohe ʻana i kēia mau inoa. ʻOiai ke ʻōlelo nei lākou he "ʻakika," ʻaʻole kēia he mau mea ʻino e like me nā mea ʻai pila. He mea maikaʻi loa lākou no ka ʻili, ʻoiai no ka wehe ʻana i nā ʻili make, e mālama ana i ka ʻili i hou a ʻālohilohi.
Nā ʻAkika Alpha-Hydroxy (AHA)
I ka ʻōlelo maʻalahi, ʻo ia nā mea i kapa pinepine ʻia ʻo "nā waikawa hua." No ka mea, hana pinepine ʻia lākou mai nā mea e like me ke kō, nā hua, a me ka waiū. Ua lohe paha ʻoe i nā inoa e like me Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, a me Citric Acid . He mau ʻano AHA kēia a pau.
- He aha kona maikaʻi? He mea maikaʻi kēia no nā mea e like me nā laina lahilahi, ka pigmentation ʻano ʻē, a me nā kiko ʻelemakule. Hoʻoheheʻe mālie lākou a wehe i ka papa luna o nā ʻili make, e hōʻike ana i ka ʻili olakino a ʻālohilohi ma lalo.
- E makaʻala! Hiki i kekahi poʻe ke ʻike i kahi kuni iki a ʻulaʻula paha i ka wā e hoʻohana ai i nā AHA. A ʻo ka mea nui loa, lilo ka ʻili i mea maʻalahi loa i ka lā ke hoʻohana ʻia kēia mau mea . No laila, inā ʻoe e hoʻohana i kahi huahana me nā AHA i ka pō, pono ʻoe e kau i kahi sunscreen maikaʻi i ke kakahiaka aʻe. A i ʻole, ʻo ka lā ʻino ma ko mākou ʻāina e hoʻonui i ka pilikia o ka hōʻino ʻana o ka ʻili.
Inā he mea hou ʻoe i ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā AHA, e hoʻomaka me kahi ʻano haʻahaʻa. E hoʻopili mua iā ia i kēlā me kēia lā ʻē aʻe, a laila e hoʻonui mālie i ka hoʻohana ʻana i kēlā me kēia lā ke maʻa kou ʻili iā ia.
ʻAkika Beta-Hydroxy (BHA)
ʻO ka mea nui a kaulana loa i kēia māhele ʻo Salicylic Acid . Ua kamaʻāina paha kēia inoa i nā poʻe he nui e mālama ana i ka ʻākena.
- He aha kona maikaʻi? Hiki i ka Salicylic Acid ke komo hohonu i loko o nā pores o ka ʻili a hoʻomaʻemaʻe iā lākou. Hoʻokumu pinepine ʻia ka ʻākena e ka hōʻiliʻili ʻana o ka ʻaila, ka lepo, a me nā ʻili make. Hoʻoheheʻe ka Salicylic Acid i kēia mau mea a wehe i nā pores. No laila, he mea kūpono loa ia i ka kaohi ʻana i ka ʻākena. Kōkua pū ia i ka hoʻomaikaʻi ʻana i ke ʻano a me ke kala o ka ʻili.
- ʻŌlelo Aʻo Kūikawā! ʻAʻole pono ka poʻe maʻi āpau i ka aspirin e hoʻohana i nā huahana i loaʻa ka Salicylic Acid no kekahi kumu. No ka mea, no ka ʻohana kemika hoʻokahi nā mea ʻelua. Eia kekahi, pono i nā makuahine hāpai a hānai waiū paha ke pale i ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka Salicylic Acid. Inā he kānalua kāu, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ke kamaʻilio ʻana me kāu kauka.
Nā hoʻonā no nā ʻeha ʻili a me ke kala ʻole
ʻO ke kala ʻili like ʻole a me ka ʻili ʻāpana nā pilikia e kū nei i nā poʻe he nui. E nānā kākou i kekahi mau mea hoʻohui e hiki ke kōkua i kēia.
ʻAilakiniona
ʻO kēia ka mea nui i loko o nā "bleaching creams" a i ʻole "nā mea hoʻomālamalama."
- He aha kona maikaʻi? Hoʻohana ʻia lākou e mālama i nā kiko ʻeleʻele ma ka ʻili, nā kiko o ka lā, nā kiko o ka wā ʻelemakule, a me kahi maʻi i kapa ʻia ʻo melasma e kū mai ana ma muli o nā loli hormonal (e like me ka wā hāpai). I ka ʻōlelo maʻalahi, hana ia ma ka hōʻemi ʻana i ka hana ʻana o ka melanin, ka mea e hoʻolilo ai i ka ʻili i ʻeleʻele.
- E makaʻala: ʻAʻole kūpono ka Hydroquinone no nā kānaka a pau. Hiki i kekahi poʻe ke maʻi āpau iā ia. Eia kekahi, pono e pale aku nā wahine hāpai i ka hoʻohana ʻana iā ia. Inā ʻaʻole kūpono kēia mau mea iā ʻoe, hiki iā ʻoe ke noʻonoʻo i nā huahana i loaʻa ka Kojic Acid a i ʻole Niacinamide (vitamin B3) . Akā ʻoi aku ka palekana o ke nīnau ʻana i kahi kauka ʻili ma mua o ka hoʻohana ʻana i kekahi mea.
ʻAkika Kojic
He mea hoʻomālamalama ʻili nō hoʻi kēia e like me Hydroquinone. Hana ʻia ia mai kahi ʻano halo. Ua lilo ia i mea kaulana ma ke ʻano he koho ʻoluʻolu ma mua o Hydroquinone.
Nā hōkū nui e kāohi ana i nā hōʻailona o ka ʻelemakule
I kēia manawa, e kamaʻilio kākou e pili ana i kekahi mau mea ikaika e kōkua ai i ka pale ʻana i nā wrinkles a me ka ʻili sagging.
Retinola
He mea kēia i hana ʻia mai ka wikamina A. ʻAʻohe hewa o ke kapa ʻana iā ia ʻo ke aliʻi o ka mālama ʻili anti-aging .
- He aha kona maikaʻi? Hiki i ka Retinol ke hoʻonui i ka wikiwiki o ka hoʻololi ʻana o nā ʻili hou. Hiki iā ia ke hoʻoulu i ka hana ʻana o ka collagen, ka mea e hāʻawi i ka ʻili i kona paʻa a me ka elasticity. ʻO ka hopena, kōkua ʻo Retinol i ka hōʻemi ʻana i nā laina maikaʻi, nā wrinkles, a me ke ʻano ʻili like ʻole, e hāʻawi ana i ka ʻili i kahi ʻano ʻōpio.
- Retinol vs. Tretinoin: Ua lohe paha ʻoe iā Retin-A. Loaʻa i kēlā lāʻau lapaʻau ʻo Tretinoin . ʻOi aku ka ikaika ma mua o Retinol, no laila hiki ke loaʻa me ke kauoha wale nō. ʻOi aku ka palupalu o Retinol, ma luna o ke kauka.
- ʻŌlelo Aʻo:Hiki i ka Retinol ke hoʻomaloʻo i ka ʻili, ʻulaʻula, a me ka ʻili ʻana. No laila, e hoʻomaka me kahi liʻiliʻi loa a hoʻonui mālie i ka hoʻomanawanui o kou ʻili. ʻAʻole ʻōlelo ʻia ʻo Retinol no nā makuahine hāpai a hānai waiū paha.
Wikamina C
He antioxidant ikaika kēia, ʻo ia hoʻi ke hōʻemi nei i ka hōʻino ʻia o nā radical manuahi i ka ʻili mai nā mea e like me ka haumia a me ka lā.
- He aha kona maikaʻi? ʻO ka pōmaikaʻi nui o ka huaora C, hiki iā ia ke hoʻonui i ka hana ʻana o ka collagen. Kōkua kēia i ka hōʻemi ʻana i nā wrinkles a me nā kīnā, a hāʻawi i ka ʻili i kahi ʻano ʻālohilohi a olakino. ʻO ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka serum huaora C ma lalo o ka sunscreen i ke kakahiaka hiki ke hōʻemi hou aku i ka pōʻino o ka lā.
Nā mea e hoʻomaʻū a hoʻoikaika i ka ʻili
He mea nui ka makū no ka ʻili olakino.
Waikawa Hyaluronic
Ke lohe ʻoe i kēia inoa, ʻike ʻoe ʻaʻole kēia he waikawa e hoʻomaloʻo ai i ka ʻili, ua like ia me ka magnet e huki a hoʻopaʻa i ka makū.
- He aha ka hana a kēia? Hiki i kahi molekole Hyaluronic Acid ke omo a paʻa i ka wai he 1000 manawa o kona kaumaha. No laila, ke hoʻopili ʻia kēia i ka ʻili, kōkua ia i ka ʻili e loaʻa ka makū e pono ai, e hoʻolilo ana iā ia i mea momona a laumania. He mea maoli ia i loaʻa maoli i loko o ko mākou kino, i loko o ko mākou ʻili, a me ko mākou mau hono. E emi ana kēia nui i ko mākou ʻelemakule ʻana.
Peptide keleawe
He mau ʻāpana liʻiliʻi o ka protein nā peptides e hana ana i ka ʻili.
- He aha ka mea maikaʻi? Hiki i nā Peptides keleawe ke kōkua i ka hana ʻana i ka collagen a me ka elastin (ka protein e hāʻawi ana i ka ʻili i kona elasticity). Ua hōʻike ʻia e ka noiʻi hiki i kēia ke kōkua i ka ʻili e lilo i paʻa a laumania. Akā he mea nui e hoʻomanaʻo i kekahi manawa hiki i nā hopena lab ke ʻoi aku ma mua o kāu e loaʻa ai i ke ola maoli.
| Mea Hoʻohui | Hana Nui | Nā mea e makaʻala ai |
|---|---|---|
| nā AHA (Glycolic, Lactic Acid) | Wehe i nā ʻāpana make, hoʻomālamalama i ka ʻili, hoʻemi i nā wrinkles maikaʻi. | He maʻalahi ka ʻili i ka lā. E hōʻoia e hoʻohana i ka sunscreen. |
| BHA (ʻAkika Salicylic) | Hoʻomalu ʻākena, hoʻomaʻemaʻe pore. | Mai hoʻohana inā he maʻi ʻoe i ka aspirin. ʻAʻole kūpono no nā makuahine hāpai/hānai waiū. |
| Retinol (Wikamina A) | Hoʻemi i nā wrinkle, hana ʻana o ka collagen, hoʻoulu hou ʻana o ka ʻili. | Hiki ke maloʻo a ʻulaʻula paha ka ʻili. E hoʻomaka mālie. ʻAʻole kūpono no nā makuahine hāpai/hānai waiū. |
| Wikamina C | Nā Antioxidants, hana collagen, hoʻomālamalama i ka ʻili. | E koho i kahi huahana i hoʻopili pono ʻia (ʻo ka ʻike ʻana i ka mālamalama a me ka ea e lilo ai kona maikaʻi). |
| Waikawa Hyaluronic | Hoʻomaʻū i ka ʻili, hoʻopiha hou i ka ʻili. (Moisturizer) | He kakaikahi nā mea e hopohopo nui ai, a e maikaʻi ka hapanui o nā kānaka. |
ʻO ka mea nui loa, ʻaʻole like ka ʻili o kēlā me kēia kanaka. ʻO ka mea e pono ai no kekahi kanaka, ʻaʻole paha e pono no kekahi. Inā kānalua ʻoe e pili ana i kou ʻano ʻili, e nīnau i kāu kauka a i ʻole ke kauka ʻili ma mua o ka hoʻāʻo ʻana i kahi mea hou. ʻO ia ka mea naʻauao a palekana loa e hana ai.
Leka Lawe-Home
- E hoʻāʻo ma mua o ka hoʻāʻo ʻana i kahi mea hou: Ma mua o ke kau ʻana i kahi huahana mālama ʻili hou i kou alo, e kau iā ia ma kahi ʻāpana liʻiliʻi, e like me ma hope o kou pepeiao, a kali i 24 mau hola e ʻike inā he hopena maʻi ʻoe (hoʻāʻo ʻili).
- E hoʻomaka kākou:I ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā huahana ikaika e like me ka retinol a me nā AHA, e hoʻohana iā lākou ma nā ʻano haʻahaʻa, ma kahi o ʻelua a ʻekolu mau lā o ka pule, a hoʻonui i ke alapine (frequency) ke maʻa kou ʻili iā lākou.
- ʻO ka pale lā kou hoaaloha: ʻOiai he aha ka ʻili āu e hoʻohana ai, e hoʻomaʻamaʻa i ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka pale lā i ke ao. He mea nui loa kēia inā ʻoe e hoʻohana ana i nā AHA a i ʻole Retinol.
- E ʻimi i ka ʻōlelo aʻoaʻo lapaʻau: Inā loaʻa iā ʻoe nā pilikia e like me ka ʻākena a me nā kīnā i paʻakikī ke kāohi, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka ʻike ʻana i kahi kauka dermatologist ma mua o ka hoʻolilo ʻana i ke kālā ma ke kuhi ʻana.
- E makaʻala loa inā hāpai ʻoe: Inā hāpai ʻoe, e hoʻāʻo ana e hāpai, a hānai waiū paha, e kamaʻilio me kāu kauka ma mua o ka hoʻohana ʻana i kekahi huahana mālama ʻili. ʻAʻole ʻōlelo ʻia ka Salicylic Acid, Retinoids, a me Hydroquinone i kēia manawa.
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